Edible Journey Winter 2010 Issue

Charcuterie Reborn in Milwaukee

By Jessica Luhning | Photos By Jim Klousia 0

When you think of all the amazing food destinations across the U.S., Milwaukee is most likely not at the top of the list. As a Wisconsin transplant, I admit to having a head full of preconceived notions about this pork-loving, beer-drinking city. I was never under the impression that Milwaukee had much to offer in the way of gourmet cuisine. Don’t get me wrong, a meal of bratwurst washed down with the city’s own “champagne of beer” is always tempting, but there had to be more in the way of artisan, handcrafted food in this city. I wanted the good stuff; I knew it existed, but I just had to find it.

Word got out that someone in Milwaukee was making and selling the state’s first certified prosciutto. Even more interestingly, we shared the same last name. Could it be? A man from my own German lineage making Wisconsin meat history? My family’s love for all things cured rivals our devotion to all things fermented and roasted. Our previous west coast home awarded us with tasty cured pork treats from the Seattle-based Armandino Batali and his renowned Salumi Cured Meats, and Berkeley’s Fra’Mani Handcrafted Salumi founded by Chef Paul Bertolli. Upon moving to Wisconsin, we were surprised and disheartened to find that our new home, in the nation’s pork belt, was void of this type of authentic handcrafted food—until now.

Pork's Revival
Pork may be the “comeback kid” in the world of haute cuisine. Every notable restaurant from east to west features at least one plate highlighting the amazing versatility of this single ingredient. It wasn’t that long ago that pork was singularly known and apathetically referred to as just the “other white meat.” Those days are gone as chefs the world over go in search of humanely-raised, high-quality heritage breed pigs. These pigs are known for their rich flavor, distinct marbling and creamy fat— the stuff that sends my husband into a food-induced coma. As food writer Michael Ruhlman and butchery and charcuterie extraordinaire Brian Polcyn declare in their book Charcuterie, “The pig is king.”

Today’s infatuation with pork, and specifically the culinary specialty known as charcuterie, calls back to the days when eaters honored the entire animal from snout to tail. This requires the skill of a master butcher, and lucky for us, the art of butchery is also making a comeback. Chef Thomas Keller, owner of French Laundry restaurant in Yountville, California, says, “This is a very hopeful time for the pig in America,” and in places like Milwaukee this couldn’t be more true.