1. Make choux puffs (see recipe).

  2. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in one very large or two large skillets over fairly high flame. When butter begins to sizzle, add mushrooms, but don’t crowd the pan(s). Sauté until mushrooms are tender and any liquid has cooked off. Season with salt and pepper. Turn off heat and keep warm.

  3. Beat eggs, cream and more salt and pepper in a bowl. Melt remaining butter in a large nonstick skillet over very low flame. Add eggs and cook very slowly, stirring occasionally, until eggs are nearly set, 15 to 20 minutes.  

  4. Stir in mushrooms and ramps (or other green things). Continue to cook slowly until eggs are set.

  5. Split the puffs in half horizontally, fill bottoms with cooked eggs and place tops back atop puffs, ajar. Serve immediately. (They can also be kept for 10 minutes or so in a warm oven.)

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