Fall is not only harvest time for local farms and orchards, it’s also the busiest season for the region’s vineyards. Despite the challenges of growing wine grapes in Wisconsin’s climate, viticulture and wine-making have a 175-year history in the state. Today’s winemakers, however, have more options than their predecessors thanks to newer hybrid varieties that can withstand harsh Midwestern winters.
Although hybrid grapes have their own wine-making complexities, they are nonetheless, very tasty. With wine-making knowledge and innovative technologies also evolving, the overall quality of these wines has greatly improved. In the 1970s and ‘80s, a few dedicated growers including Elmer Swenson developed cultivars such as St. Croix, St. Pepin and Brianna, which were co-developed with University of Minnesota. In the past few years, the University of Minnesota has released more promising grape varietals including Frontenac, La Crescent, Marquette and Frontenac Gris, and spurred more interest in wine-making in the upper Midwest.
Erin Rasmussen is a winemaker who has made it her personal mission to showcase lesser-known Midwest hybrid varietal wines at her new Mineral Point winery, American Wine Project. After graduating from the University of Wisconsin–Madison with a degree in music, Erin earned her advanced degree in Viticulture and Enology from Lincoln University in New Zealand. Then she spent 10 years working as a winemaker in New Zealand, Napa and Sonoma California for wineries such as Larkmead and Gallo. During a trip to field taste during pinot harvest in Napa, Erin was invited to sample some “interesting new varietals from the Midwest” at a nearby winery. At first taste she was immediately inspired and realized that she could make interesting wines closer to home.
She returned to her Wisconsin roots in 2017 to take on the challenge of making cold-climate wines. “I really feel in the upper Midwest there are things we can do in winemaking that the West Coast winemakers can’t,” Erin says “It’s also important to appreciate the hybrid grapes for their uniqueness and not compare them to European varietals. They are capable of making delicious, complex and age-worthy wines.”
Erin doesn’t currently own her own vineyard, but it’s part of her 5-year plan. “The Driftless region is the front door to great grape-growing,” Erin explains. She currently purchases grapes from several growers around the Midwest for her winery, including a few in the Driftless region. American Wine Project currently has 12 wines available for tasting, by the glass or by the bottle, with two new wines planned for the 2021 harvest. Each of the artistic labels, from flamingos to fly-fishing, displays what Erin hopes “primes you for what’s inside the bottle and takes you on a journey with the wine.” A couple titles hint at her musical talents. Erin describes the business’s logo, the symbol known as the “Eye of Providence,” as “very American.” She says “it represents the unknown and encourages us to be curious and to experiment. After all, every time you make wine, it’s an experiment.”
A basket press is used during the pressing stage of the wine making process, which is a true labor of love. This type of winepress is used to extract juice from crushed grapes during wine-making and although more time-consuming, it is a gentler process, extracting less of the bitter compounds from red grape skins, therefore resulting in a softer wine. Erin prefers low intervention in the cellars to craft wines in a dry style. “I want the fruit to tell its own story.” The wines complete a second fermentation to soften the tart acids that are common in hybrid grapes, then age in oak barrels to become rounder and softer.
Wine flights (small samples of different wines) are chosen at the counter then taken to your seat to enjoy at your own pace. Erin hopes you contemplate the wines and interact with others around you. “Talk about the wines and create memories.” Erin plans to be a familiar face in the tasting area, greeting guests and sharing her passion for winemaking and the Wisconsin experience.
In choosing wines, Erin says if you’re uncomfortable with Wisconsin wines, try Sympathetic Magic made from 100% Marquette grapes, and for those looking for something European, taste the Sound of Memory, an earthy flavored Marechal Foch wine. If you prefer something that goes down easy, she recommends the Ancestral Petillant Naturel with its delicate sparkling style made from Brianna grapes, but if you’re a trendsetter, she advises you dive into the Light Verse White Piquette with its rustic savory quality and tongue prickling tartness. She claims the 2020 vintage made some great wines. Her passion is contagious and it’s evident as she talks about her wines. AWP will also carry some interesting local beers and serve a curated selection of food pairings. “We want to have something for everyone,” Erin adds.
The winery building, once used as an industrial arts shop for the local high school, then a garden nursery, has been transformed again through significant renovations while retaining its industrial vibe. The tasting room has high ceilings and cement floors, both on Erin’s must-have list when searching for a home for her new winery. The exposed ductwork, natural wood accents and large windows that invite the light inside give the space an inviting and organic feel. There are a variety of seating options, a cozy wall fireplace, and a stocked library shelf for curious readers, making this a great destination for a solo date with your journal or a birthday party with friends. “My goal is to make it comfortable, relaxing and welcoming for everyone. I want people to come and hang out. I guess it’s a community space gussied up as a winery” she chuckles. “Being able to enjoy the winery and taste our wines during all four seasons of the year will be a classic Wisconsin experience.”
The winery’s large outside patio is filled with umbrella-clad tables and a shady arbor waiting for those who’d like to taste or sip outdoors. Erin encourages you to wander the garden with wine in hand to explore the restored flower beds and native plantings that line the pond. Paths wind through the expansive garden with lawn chairs and benches just inviting you to linger. Lawn games are set up and ready to make your visit a family-friendly event. Tours are also available by appointment.
The efficient and knowledgeable staff, led by Anna Freundle, Hospitality and Tasting Room Manager, are there to ensure the best experience possible for visitors. AWP is also a family affair. Erin’s dad, Dave Rasmussen, plays the roles of business consultant, accountant and “Head Carpenter”at the winery, alongside his day-gig as a president of a software company in Madison. Erin’s mom, Mary, wrote a USDA grant in collaboration with the City of Mineral Point to secure federal funding to support the business. She also reigns as “Garden Manager,” maintaining and beautifying the gardens surrounding the winery. She’s always happy to have an extra set of hands—if you have a green thumb, check out the benefits of their Garden Club.
Erin’s commitment to the community is evident through her thoughtful renovations and uses of her new winery space. Her innovative spirit, hard work and enthusiasm has created a welcoming winery space and many delicious wines for all to enjoy. American Wine Project should be on everyone’s list to visit.
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