Imagine it’s a sunny Friday afternoon in early fall. The air is still warm and the anticipation of a weekend on the isthmus is palpable. Beer gardens are rolling out their chairs and tables, State Street’s bars are abuzz with groups of people meeting after work, and restaurant workers are busying themselves for a long night.
Alas, in pandemic times, all that feels far away. Those simple pleasures of a weekend spent eating, drinking and taking in the joy of the community aren’t quite the same. There’s an ache that comes from the lack of simple moments we thought would always be there: Badger games, beers after work, a dinner with friends. It’s only now that our options are limited that I realize how important these little things are. So, in the midst of this weird fever dream of a year, when I stumble upon a simple joy—like an excellent taco, for instance—it means that much more.
El Sabor de Puebla is an east side favorite located next to East High School on 4th Street. On a sunny Sunday afternoon I made my way over—masked up and sanitizer at the ready. I ordered three pastor tacos and a Coke and took them to the outdoor tables to sit and eat. As I tucked into the spicy, smoky pork, it occurred to me that this was one of the moments I had been longing for. After the last bite I sat back and felt the wonderful high that comes after a good meal: warm, a little tired, and blissful. The pandemic melted, leaving me with a sunny afternoon, a full belly and a moment of peace.
El Sabor de Puebla, owned and run by Reyna Gonzalez, who hails from the state of Puebla in South Central Mexico, has been serving farm-to-table, authentic Mexican food in Madison for five years. Reyna sources much of the restaurant’s produce from her brother Juan’s farm, Los Abuelos Farley Farm in Verona. The restaurant also makes its own masa from fresh corn, which gives its tortillas, picaditas and tamales exceptional flavor. Although the pandemic forced Gonzalez to close the restaurant this past spring, the location is now open for takeout, and delivery is available through Grubhub. Their tamales also are available at Willy Street Co-op, Santa Maria Grocery, Enrique’s Market, and Abarrotes Yuremi in Waunakee.
As the pandemic continues to rage, hopes of normalcy get pushed further and further down the road. In the meantime, visits to places like El Sabor de Puebla can help sustain small business and local agriculture and offer us something precious in return: the small moments of joy that keep us afloat, too.
More Stories by This Author
Edible in your mailbox
