Butter-Fried Salt ‘n Pepper Noodles

Bring a pot of salted water to boil. Add noodles and boil rapidly, stirring occasionally, until barely tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain, rinse lightly and drain again, then let stand, tossing occasionally, until they’re mostly dry.

Melt butter in a great big cast iron or other heavy skillet over medium-high flame. When butter begins to sizzle, add noodles and season them generously with salt and pepper (be especially generous with the pepper). Cook without disturbing the noodles until their undersides are golden brown and crispy in most spots. Then toss and turn them with a metal spatula and cook the other side the same way. Toss again and keep cooking the noodles (do this once or twice more), until they reach the ratio of crispy edges to springy insides that you love most.