Ovens of Brittany Chicken Potpie

Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a heavy saucepan over medium flame. Stir in onions, carrots and celery, plus some salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, about 3 minutes. Add thyme, rosemary and bay leaf; cook, stirring often, until vegetables are mostly tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Add chicken and cook, stirring, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in stock and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low and continue simmering until chicken is tender, a few minutes longer.

Meanwhile, make the roux: Melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over low flame. Whisk in flour and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Pour chicken mixture through a strainer set over a bowl. Transfer the liquid back into the saucepan, set heat to medium and return to simmer. Whisk in roux; simmer sauce gently, stirring often, until thickened and smooth, 3 to 5 minutes. Meanwhile, heat cream or half-and-half to just hot in microwave or atop stove.

Stir hot cream and peas into simmering sauce, then stir in chicken mixture (discard bay leaf). Season with salt and pepper to taste. The filling may be used immediately, but to further develop flavor, cool it to warm or room temperature, about 1 hour. (Filling may be refrigerated and then returned to room temperature when you’re ready to bake the potpies.)

To bake: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Cut out dough to fit the tops of 4 individual ovenproof ceramic bowls or baking dishes (each large enough to hold about 1 1/2 cups filling). Portion filling into dishes. Top with dough pieces and make two small slashes with a sharp knife in center of each pastry. Place dishes on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips. Bake until pastry is golden brown and puffed high, 40 to 45 minutes.

Serve potpies straight from the oven.