Fairchild

Over the past four years that outlet has been Fairchild where Nagano, along with fellow chef and co-owner Andrew Kroeger, curate an ever-evolving menu featuring some of the most inventive and deeply delicious dishes in the state.

Their cozy restaurant on Madison’s Monroe Street offers upscale yet approachable fare, centered on local and seasonal ingredients. What is abundant and seasonally at its peak will likely find its way onto the Fairchild menu, which often changes daily. Up to four or five dishes can rotate each week depending on the time of year, with more changes happening as Wisconsin transitions from one season to the next.

The secret to their seemingly endless pool of creativity is quite simple according to the two soft- spoken and humble chefs. “For me, I usually just buy a bunch of stuff and then come up with something,” says Kroeger. Nagano finds his culinary inspiration in much the same way. “I go to the market and see what they have and then go from there,” he echos.

Local habanada peppers (heatless habaneros) and sugar cube cantaloupe bring bright pops of color and flavor to a hiramasa snack, and Dreamfarm’s fresh chèvre shines alongside blistered cherry tomatoes and sofrito braised kale as the summer season comes to a close. But as Wisconsin trades autumn leaves for blankets of snow, even these James Beard Award-winning chefs find themselves challenged by the limited local produce.

“It forces you to be a little more creative with things,” says Kroeger. Winter often finds a menu with more meat-forward, comforting dishes and the chefs continually finding ways to keep winter squash, potatoes and cabbage intriguing palates.

Pinpointing the source of their culinary ingenuity is a struggle for Kroeger and Nagano because, for them, the creative process has no beginning or end. “We’re always working on something,” says Nagano. “I’m always thinking about food.”

The pair, who met while working together at Madison’s L’Etoile, share both the operational and creative responsibilities of Fairchild. Kroeger oversees the pasta and wine programs while Nagano develops most of the entrees. They typically split development of the snacks, appetizers, sides and desserts.

Nagano’s dishes in particular bring with them an aesthetic influenced by his classical training in French culinary techniques and early years of making sushi and Japanese food. “I always liked that kind of style,” says Nagano of his plating style that embraces the artistry of Japanese cuisine.

Dishes are balanced, beautiful in their minimalism and exude a deep respect for the ingredients. In that way, a meal at Fairchild is a delight for all senses and a true celebration of what each season brings. So while frigid February often has Nagano and Kroeger dreaming of summer tomatoes and crisp fall apples, perhaps it is the fierce rolling of Wisconsin’s seasons that keeps their creative energy flowing—bringing novel dishes to Fairchild at a dizzying yet inspiring pace.