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Agriculture and Environmental Conservation

For our tenth anniversary, we've created a special issue that is both a retrospective and future-focused view of our regional food system. We've selected ten of our favorite and most pertinent past issues. For each, we revisit the issue's theme or feature article, examine how it has evolved since then, and share insights for the future. We hope you enjoy taking a walk down memory lane with us...

Original article: Birth of a Conservation Movement by Jessica Lunning, Fall 2013

Then

The lyricism of this story overlaid with dramatic aerial imagery drew us in once again. Author Jessica Luhning painted a vivid history of a unique and vulnerable landscape, its near destruction, and its restoration from 40-foot storm-eroded gullies in the 1930s to—only a few decades later—the gorgeous scene you see here.

Contour farming can reduce soil loss by 50 to 75 percent, keeping valuable topsoil on the ridges and hillsides rather than further muddying the Mississippi. When this article was published in 2013, Vernon County had more acres in contour than any county in the nation. Notably, National Geographic magazine photographed the area in 1995, gaining global recognition for the Driftless region.

Now

With dairy in oversupply and exports significantly down, Wisconsin’s agriculture industry is in crisis. In 2019, we led the nation in farm bankruptcies: more than 800 dairy farms went out of business—at a rate of more than two a day.

What does dairy have to do with contour farming and conservation? The “buffer strips” that make contour farming effective consist of non-erosive crops like alfalfa, which provide hay for dairy cows. “The use of contour strips is dependent upon the health of the dairy industry,” said the article, and not much has changed since. It’s simply not financially viable to plant alfalfa without cows to eat it or dairy farmers to buy it. Farms that are still in business are tilling under buffer strips and removing contours to make way for more profitable corn and soy, and it’s entirely understandable. When your family’s immediate needs are at risk, you make tough choices to keep the farm afloat.

The promotion of no-till farming also contributes to the removal of strips. Although no-till farming does reduce soil erosion and is considered “sustainable” by industry standards, it truly only sustains. It doesn’t rebuild the land like perennial non-erosive crops grown in a contour system do, and its success relies on synthetic fertilizers and weed killers.

“There’s a place in America’s Heartland that still beats a wild, pre-Ice Age pulse all on its own. A wooly land with a deep, plush greeness that extends from coulee to ridge and back down and on and on. Water runs like veins, dissecting the soft earth and porous stone with its daily gentle flow; or in times of plenty, a force capable of unfixing century-old homes from their stone foundations, displacing farm implements and fertile soils downriver by miles.” —Jessica Luhning

Future

“The Driftless is not suited for corn and soybeans or large livestock operations,” Jeff Hastings, a former Vernon County conservationist, said in 2013. “Instead, it presents an enormous opportunity for managed grazing”—an opportunity that many small, family-owned farms in Southern Wisconsin are taking advantage of, with plenty of consumer support. The demand for grass-fed animal products continues to increase as more and more people recognize the superior taste (and, studies are beginning to show, improved nutrition) of pasture-based meat, eggs and dairy.

Looking long-term, organic dairy and regenerative farming are certainly bright spots in the future of Wisconsin agriculture, with regenerative organic farming offering the greatest potential for both farm income and conservation of our soil, air and water.

Wisconsin is second in the nation for USDA Certified Organic farms, not even counting those that use organic practices but aren’t large enough to require certification. Organic practices work with the land, not against it; and on average, organic is more profitable, providing hope for many struggling farms.

Regenerative farming does exactly what its name suggests: regenerates the land, leaving it better than it was. In the original article, we contrasted a Wisconsin Historical Society photo of a dramatically eroded gully with an aerial photo of the same area in 2013. There’s no sign of the devastation from 80 years ago. It’s an incredible regeneration of the land.

Contour farming may have birthed the conservation movement back in the 1930s, but today, it’s one technique within the bigger picture of conservation-focused agriculture that goes beyond individual practices to include culture and values. And that’s reason for hope. “I see regenerative agriculture as bringing the ‘culture’ back into the study of agronomy,” said Marie Raboin, orchardist and cofounder of Brix Cider. “Incorporating diverse livestock, natural areas, grasslands and human enjoyment all play a role in an agriculture that not just sustains soil, air and water, but enhances the creativity and adaptability of the humans on the farm.”

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