Charcuterie Reborn in Milwaukee

When you think of all the amazing food destinations across the U.S., Milwaukee is most likely not at the top of the list. As a Wisconsin transplant, I admit to having a head full of preconceived notions about this pork-loving, beer-drinking city. I was never under the impression that Milwaukee had much to offer in the way of gourmet cuisine. Don’t get me wrong, a meal of bratwurst washed down with the city’s own “champagne of beer” is always tempting, but there had to be more in the way of artisan, handcrafted food in this city. I wanted the good stuff; I knew it existed, but I just had to find it.

Word got out that someone in Milwaukee was making and selling the state’s first certified prosciutto. Even more interestingly, we shared the same last name. Could it be? A man from my own German lineage making Wisconsin meat history? My family’s love for all things cured rivals our devotion to all things fermented and roasted. Our previous west coast home awarded us with tasty cured pork treats from the Seattle-based Armandino Batali and his renowned Salumi Cured Meats, and Berkeley’s Fra’Mani Handcrafted Salumi founded by Chef Paul Bertolli. Upon moving to Wisconsin, we were surprised and disheartened to find that our new home, in the nation’s pork belt, was void of this type of authentic handcrafted food—until now.

Pork's Revival
Pork may be the “comeback kid” in the world of haute cuisine. Every notable restaurant from east to west features at least one plate highlighting the amazing versatility of this single ingredient. It wasn’t that long ago that pork was singularly known and apathetically referred to as just the “other white meat.” Those days are gone as chefs the world over go in search of humanely-raised, high-quality heritage breed pigs. These pigs are known for their rich flavor, distinct marbling and creamy fat— the stuff that sends my husband into a food-induced coma. As food writer Michael Ruhlman and butchery and charcuterie extraordinaire Brian Polcyn declare in their book Charcuterie, “The pig is king.”

Today’s infatuation with pork, and specifically the culinary specialty known as charcuterie, calls back to the days when eaters honored the entire animal from snout to tail. This requires the skill of a master butcher, and lucky for us, the art of butchery is also making a comeback. Chef Thomas Keller, owner of French Laundry restaurant in Yountville, California, says, “This is a very hopeful time for the pig in America,” and in places like Milwaukee this couldn’t be more true.

Herefords, like other heritage breed pigs thrive on multi-use, openpasture farms. Their bloodline is several centuries old, and because they are not suited for commercial production, we are at risk of losing them forever as the genetic diversity of the world’s livestock continues to disappear. This would be a tragedy, as Herefords are known for their sweet disposition and flavorful meat. They are a farmer’s friend and a pork lover’s dream. The future of heritage livestock like Herefords is reliant upon the farmers who can afford to raise them, the butchers with the skills to process them, the markets and restaurants that offer them, and let’s not forget the consumer for creating a demand for them.

Today there are fewer than 2,000 Hereford pigs in the nation. Enter Scott Buer of Bolzano Artisan Meats in Milwaukee. Buer is doing his best to not only preserve this rare heritage breed, but to also resurrect the lost art of charcuterie.

Charcuterie, from the French words flesh (chair) and cooked (cuit), is the art of salting, smoking and cooking meats for preservation. Bacon, sausages, hams, pates and terrines are all part of this culinary art form.

At Bolzano, Buer uses Hereford pork to produce Wisconsin’s first state-inspected, dry-cured prosciutto and pancetta. Prosciutto is the Italian word for ham, specifically dry-cured ham that is served thinly sliced, and pancetta is dry-cured pork belly similar to bacon. In addition to pancetta, Bolzano offers five different types of prosciutto: buttery Guanciale made of pork cheeks; front leg Paletilla Hungara known for its notes of smoky and sweet paprika; Susslende (“sweet loin”) cured with Wisconsin maple sugar; the limited Black Pepper Tenderloin; and the prized whole, bone-in Speck Prosciutto with its complex spice and fruit notes.

For Buer, charcuterie started as a hobby. His love of artisan, handcrafted food led him to practice sausage, bacon and salami making in his home kitchen. In truth, he admits it was a 1940s mint-condition Globe slicer (the “Cadillac of slicers”) purchased for ten dollars which prompted his desire to make his hobby a career. With a background in food marketing, Buer understands quality control issues, and he knew that to operate a thriving food business he would need to adhere to Wisconsin food safety laws.

Modeling his business after the microbrewery industry, Buer opened his small, craft cured meat business, Bolzano Artisan Meats, in April 2009. Bolzano is discretely located in Milwaukee’s Riverwest area in an old 1950s Sealtest Dairy building, which has served as a pseudo business incubator for other businesses like Great Lakes Distillery and Lake Front Brewery. Today Buer receives two pigs a week from Lyle Bogard, who raises Herefords near Lake Geneva, which is enough to keep Buer and his business partner and wife, Christin, more than busy. With hopes of keeping the business sustainable and maintaining a high quality product, they plan to expand slowly over the next couple of years.

To the Plate
Like the farmer and the butcher, the chef has his/her own role to play in preserving not only heritage breed animals but also artisan, handcrafted foods. Milwaukee just happens to be home to two of the most talented chefs in the region, John Raymond and Paul Zerkel of Roots Restaurant and Cellar.

Roots opened in 2004 as the only farmer-chef owned restaurant in the state. A member of Slow Food USA and Chefs Collaborative, Roots has been recognized in Bon Appetit and Gourmet Magazine and is considered one of America’s top 20 green restaurants by Organic Style Magazine. The local vegetables featured on the menu are grown on Raymond’s farm in Cedarburg, Wisconsin, or sourced from other area farms. Roots also proudly serves cured meats from Bolzano, bacon from Nueskes, as well as Wilson Farm pork, the key ingredient in the housemade chorizo, kielbasa and Andouille sausage.

It is these connections between farmer, butcher, chef and eater that will sustain local food systems and preserve the genetic diversity of our meat animals.

(Editor's Update: We are sad to announce that Roots closed its doors in September, 2012.)

Next Time, Make it Milwaukee
My preconceived notions about Milwaukee were not completely incorrect in the end: This is still a city that loves its share of pork and beer. However, I was mistaken to assume that it ended with overprocessed, assembly line sausages and mystery meat spreads coupled with watered-down, mass-produced malt beverages. A strong artisanal and innovative food movement is currently brewing in Miltown. In addition to Roots, there are a number of other notable restaurants, like La Merenda in the historic Walker’s Point neighborhood. La Merenda sources product from Sweet Water Organics, Wilson Farm Meats, Carr Valley Cheese, Rushing Waters Trout and Strauss Free Range Lamb, to name a few.

Farmers, butchers and chefs unite to serve up some of the region’s best local fare. When you are looking for an urban getaway, look no further than this Fresh Coast City. You will not be disappointed.

For More:

Bolzano Artisan Meats
3950 N. Holton St., Milwaukee
414-426-6380 • www.bolzanomeats.com

Be sure to include Bolzano cured meats in your holiday meal and party planning. Pair Madison’s own Potter’s Crackers with a variety of Wisconsin artisan cheeses and a selection of Bolzano’s Susslende, Paletilla Hungara and Pancetta. Order Bolzano’s cured meats on their website, or find them at the following restaurants and specialty food stores:

Milwaukee: Sendik’s, Rupena, Glorioso Brothers Italian Market, Roots Restaurant and Cellar, Vino 100 in Wauwatosa, Umami Moto, Charro, Distil, Carnevor

Madison: Fromagination, Steve’s Wine and Cheese, Brasserie V

Roots Restaurant and Cellar
1818 N. Hubbard St., Milwaukee
414-374-8480 • www.rootsmilwaukee.com

La Merenda
125 E. National Ave., Milwaukee
414-389-0125 • www.lamerenda125.com