Wisconsin's Rich History of Heirloom Apple Production

Original article: Honoring Our Apple Elders by Wendy Allen, Fall 2012

Then

Some sources say that at the turn of the 20th century, there were up to 15,000 known varieties of apple. At the time of this story in 2012, only 11 varieties made up 90 percent of commercial production. In contrast, many orchards in Wisconsin had begun bringing back old fashioned apple varieties—the flavorful “apple elders” displaced by modern cultivars like the Red Delicious, bred more for appearance and shelf stability than taste. The resurgence of “antique” apples at farmers markets and small groceries was driven by a new breed of shopper interested in unique flavors, including more tart options as home baking became popular again.

Wisconsin’s abundance of apple orchards dates to the early 1900s, when the Wisconsin Horticultural Society planted trial orchards around the state. The ones that thrived developed characteristics from the local soils and microclimates—apple terroir.

Because many of Wisconsin’s antique apples were, and still are, hard to find, artist Bambi Edlund created lovely illustrations that perfectly captured the spirit of these old-timey apple offerings.

Now

Although only nine to 15 varieties (depending on the source) still make up the majority of commercial production, increased web searches related to heirloom apples in recent years suggest growing interest in more variety and better flavor. Weston’s Antique Apples, featured in our original story, remains the state’s premier producer of heirloom apples. Weston’s is the oldest active orchard in Waukesha County and grows more than 100 apple varieties, plus other fruit and berry crops. In Wisconsin today, there are more than 6,500 acres of orchards, with more than 1,000 acres gracing the ridgetops and south-facing slopes surrounding Gays Mills in Crawford County. Driving around this area and popping into all the orchards, wandering among the trees, picking a bushel of fresh apples and examining the plethora of homemade goods in the shops is a wonderful way to spend a weekend.

Future

Although we expect heirloom apple demand to remain steady as farmers markets, CSAs and food co-ops encourage local sourcing from smaller producers, there are some particularly hot topics surrounding these delicious orbs that we're keeping our eyes on.

Climate change is a critical issue for all Wisconsin agriculture, including our orchards. As our climate shifts could open up new growing regions—or make current apple-growing regions unviable. Changes to local microclimates can also increase incidences of pests and fungi, further putting our state’s apple industry and biodiversity at risk.

Thankfully, our state’s apple industry is a forward-looking lot. The Eco-Apples Project of UW-Madison’s Center for Integrated Agriculture Systems works with local orchardists to help them reduce their reliance on chemical sprays by using multiple integrated techniques at once to address pests. The project is a wonderful example of information-sharing between veteran and new growers. The influx of new orchards, apple-product businesses and solution-oriented programs in the region are all fantastic indicators that our apple industry is strong and the future is bright.

Consumers can support the rich heritage of apple growing in Wisconsin by choosing apples that are local or regional and produced using low-impact methods. Unlike the Haas avocado and Cavendish banana—both at great risk from pests and disease because they are grown in genetic monocultures—apples available in our region remain genetically diverse. If encouraged and protected, this diversity will ensure that these delicious and unique “apple elders” continue to delight future generations of apple-lovers.